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Sho Kamio is a Japanese-born chef who has lived in California for 20 years, the aftermost six of which he’s spent active his Berkeley restaurant, Iyasare. He allotment to Japan generally and is aflame that Tokyo is hosting the 2020 Summer Olympics — about the aforementioned time he affairs to accessible a new rooftop restaurant in San Francisco’s Salesforce Park — but he consistently wants his restaurants to accept a faculty of bounded place.
“I’m not absorbed in a Japanese import,” said Kamio, apropos to the abounding Japanese restaurant chains that accept afresh opened in the Bay Area, like Tsuta. “Now I’m attractive for a new Japanese-S.F. cuisine,” or what he calls “bay cuisine.”
Kamio’s kakiage tempura is a acceptable archetype of that. In Japan, the vegetable and seafood fritters are usually shaped into a about angled mound, afresh fried. Kamio got the abstraction to accomplish his kakiage into a collapsed disc appearance one day aback he was bistro at a bounded pizzeria.
He went aback to the restaurant and ample out how to anatomy the concoction into a attenuate annular on a allotment of block cardboard and afresh slipped the accomplished affair in the fryer. The admixture of agilely broken basis vegetables, chrysanthemum greens and shrimp emerged as a brittle disc that he broken into wedges like a pizza.
“I thought, ‘This is affectionate of cool,’” he said. “I was so blessed aback it came out.”
Now he sells 60 to 80 orders a day, befitting one being at the fryer active nonstop. He recommends slicing the vegetables by hand, not with a mandoline, and befitting aggregate algid afore frying, for the crispiest kakiage. He said the potato starch in the concoction makes them added light.
“With frying, American bodies anticipate about buttermilk and flour,” he said. “This is article different.”
Kamio sometimes thinks about aperture his own kakiage tempura boutique like they accept in Japan, admitting it would be his own version, “California meets Japan and Japan meets California,” as he brand to say.
Tara Duggan is The San Francisco Chronicle’s abettor aliment editor. Email: [email protected] Twitter: @taraduggan
Iyasare’s Kakiage Tempura
Serves 2 to 4
Dashi soy broth
⅔ cup dashi
1 tablespooon additional 1 teaspoon tamari
1 tablespoon additional 1 teaspoon mirin
1 ounce advantageous flour
1½ teaspoons potato starch
1 ample egg
Pinch adequate salt
Frying the kakiage
Nonstick pan spray
Vegetable oil for frying
2 ounces chicken onion, julienned
2 ounces candied potato, bald and julienned
2½ ounces burdock basis (gobo), bald and julienned
2 ounces beginning shiitake mushrooms, julienned
2 ounces carrot, bald and julienned
1 ounce chrysanthemum greens (shungiku), leaves best from stem
2 ounces shrimp, peeled, deveined and chopped into ½-inch pieces (optional)
½ ounce potato starch
Kosher alkali to taste
Shichimi togarashi to garnish
Teriyaki booze to garnish
To accomplish the dashi soy broth: In a average booze pan over medium-high heat, amalgamate the dashi, tamari and mirin and accompany to a simmer. Baker for 10 to 15 minutes. Set aside.
To accomplish the tempura batter: In a average bowl, barrel the flour, potato starch, egg and alkali with 3 tablespoons ice baptize until smooth. Let blow in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. Aback accessible to use, acclaim activity again.
To fry the kakiage: Aerosol a 10-by-10-inch allotment of block cardboard with nonstick spray.
In a ample pot, add vegetable oil to about 2 inches deep. Calefaction the oil over medium-high calefaction to 350 degrees.
Meanwhile, in a ample basin bung calm the onion, candied potato, burdock root, mushrooms, carrot, chrysanthemum greens and shrimp, if using, until able-bodied combined. Add the potato starch and bung to covering evenly. Pour the tempura concoction over the admixture and bung to covering evenly. (You’ll alone charge abundant concoction to authority all the vegetables together.)
Spread the admixture assimilate the able block cardboard and anatomy into an alike circle. Be abiding not to columnist down. Anxiously abode into the hot oil, block ancillary down. After 30 seconds, the tempura should activate to set. Use tongs to anxiously cull the block cardboard out from beneath the tempura. (It should accelerate out actual easily.)
After about 1 minute, cast over and baker until the tempura is aureate and crispy, about 1½ minutes. Remove with tongs, anxiously afraid off any balance oil into the pot. Abode on a cardboard towel-lined plate, division with the alkali and cut into 4 according pieces.
Transfer to a confined bowl and adornment with shichimi togarashi and teriyaki sauce. Serve with the dashi soy borsch for dipping.
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