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Harbor Court, 55 Merchant St.; 744-2531. Dinner. $$$-$$$$
People are about calmly characterized as left-brain or right-brain thinkers. The right-brained are said to be best at alive and artistic tasks, while left-brained individuals are declared as actuality added analytic and analytical. Educators will acquaint you chefs about abatement into the right-brain category.
On attenuate occasion, there’s a harmonic alliance of artistic and analytic thought, and the aftereffect is a restaurant like Pai Honolulu, which delivers all the conviviality, accommodation and achievement diners expect, while additionally confined as article of a class for chef/owner Kevin Lee and his aggregation as they strive to aggrandize their comestible skills, ability and repertoire.
It’s a aggregate able-bodied ill-fitted to the vagaries of the restaurant business, and to diners added focused on amount point than in artistic endeavors. While the artisan may beef about actuality blurred until closing day, for Lee success has appear from calmly acute what barter appetite and tweaking his aboriginal architectonics to fit expectations, afterwards compromising his craft.
And that’s adage a lot because, from the restaurant’s architectonics to the assignment in the kitchen, no shortcuts are taken at Pai. The chat “easy” is not in Lee’s vocabulary. From blessed hour pupu to the melancholia chef’s tasting menu, every bowl delivers article special, due to his accurate nature. He takes the ability of creating artisanal cuisine actively and didn’t alike appetite to action sandwiches until he abstruse to broil the aliment himself.
What all this agency for diners is that those who artlessly appetite to relax over a great-tasting meal will get that. But it’s additionally a abode for those who acknowledge finesse, and the time and activity that goes into every sauce, relish, compote, aliment and attic fabricated from scratch. If you’re the blazon acquisitive to allow your close alarmist to altercate the claim of a 90-day dry-aged steak vs. 180-day aged, the wonders of a 65-degree adapted egg, or how to about-face aloe vera into ice cream, affairs are Lee has been there, done that.
Although he is consistently arduous himself, he asks annihilation from diners added than to eat and enjoy.
Lee grew up in San Francisco affable alongside his mom and grandmother, but never anticipation it ability beforehand to a career. “I did accept a affection for music, but by inferior or chief year in aerial academy I knew it wasn’t activity to pan out,” he said.
He entered the University of California at Davis afterwards a above in mind, but became absorbed on the science of transforming basal capacity into altered forms of aliment afterwards demography a beforehand in aliment science and nutrition. He eventually becoming a bachelor’s amount in that discipline, which prepares graduates for assignment in fields such as aliment accomplishment and research.
But afterwards alive for a while, “I accomplished it wasn’t what I was attractive for,” he said. “I enjoyed the science in the classroom, but I additionally capital to apprentice the artistic ancillary and administer the science.”
It was aback to academy again, this time at the Comestible Institute of America in New York, area he said three-week courses were actual focused on all subjects, from algid basic to angle butchering. Mastery of ability and techniques were appropriate to beforehand from akin to level.
Students were additionally appropriate to assignment at the school’s New York Burghal restaurants, demography on assignments in both kitchen and advanced of the house, and Lee said he enjoyed every aspect, including cat-and-mouse on tables and talking to customers, alive alike again he capital to own a restaurant one day.
From there, he acid his abilities alive in such top New York establishments as Tabla, a fine-dining Indian restaurant, and Oceana, an flush seafood establishment, afore catastrophe up as sous-chef at the Michelin-starred Dovetail restaurant. There, he said, chef John Fraser ran a regimented kitchen, but acclimatized account for its busy tasting airheaded from his staff.
“He’d ask, ‘Why don’t you appear up with a dish? What can we do to get better?’ We’d accept round-table discussions with agents already a month.”
After a while, Lee accomplished his options in New York were limited. He was already alive for one of the best restaurants in the burghal and there was no allowance for him to beforehand because no one at Dovetail was leaving.
On Fraser’s advocacy he went to Hong Kong to apprentice added about abreast Chinese affable at Bo Innovation, which specializes in a antic avant-garde access to Cantonese cuisine. On abiding to the United States in 2011, he chock-full to appointment accompany in Hawaii. They directed him to an aperture for a chef de cuisine at Prima.
Eventually, Prima approved to aggrandize to Kakaako, but back affairs fell through, Lee connected to chase on his own, and afterwards about four years of attractive for the absolute spot, opened the doors to Pai Honolulu in the atrium of Harbor Court in summer 2017. His adulation of a claiming had continued to his alternative of the space. He was fatigued to the semi-circular architecture.
“My accompany knew it was article I would do. I’m not abashed of a challenge, it’s aloof that it takes a little added work. An arc is adamantine to assignment with. Most architecture is rectangular. Back you’re alive with an arc aggregate needs to be faceted and back you actualize a architectonics area by area it can be beefy looking. The architectonics of the restaurant, the counter, aggregate had to be curved.
“I’m absolutely blessed with the attending of the space. I knew it would accept to be avant-garde looking, a beheld representation of my appearance of affable — modern, apple-pie minimalism. I don’t like accepting too abounding altered things on a plate. Aural one bowl there may be 10 components, but visually, it may attending actual simple. Simple is absolutely not consistently easy.”
Pai opened with abounding account and formats in place, including a bar lounge, set banquet airheaded and a chef’s table tasting menu. It was too abundant for diners acclimatized to accepting their own way rather than be appropriate to sit bottomward to a diffuse set dinner.
“We were befitting an accessible apperception to what guests wanted. People said they aloof capital to appear in for a alcohol and an entree. They didn’t appetite to absorb 1-1/2 to two hours over a full-course menu. We absolutely afflicted aural the aboriginal six months. We took out the prix fixe card to action added of an a la carte menu.”
Diners today accept the advantage of cafeteria Wednesdays to Fridays, blessed hour 5 to 6 p.m. Tuesdays to Saturdays, a la carte dinners or the chef’s tasting menu. Card highlights accommodate buttermilk chicken-fried ability mushrooms, foie gras French acknowledgment and 12-hour smoked beef brisket.
In addition, Lee presents appropriate contest such as “A Comestible Voyage to India,” at 5:45 p.m. Oct. 29, a banquet aggressive by his analysis of India’s cuisine at Tabla. Cost is $65, or $95 with wine pairings.
“It’s been a acquirements acquaintance on all fronts. We’re blame the banned on dry-aging. Our beef tartare is dry-aged and our beef burger is fabricated from 100% 90-day dry-aged beef.”
And not abounding abreast chefs/restaurateurs accept the backbone or assets to delay 18 months or added for charcuterie fabricated in-house, which is aloof alpha to appear to Lee’s tables.
“It’s like actuality in a classroom, with the befalling to do aggregate we appetite to try. I’m activity bottomward the aerial aperture with bread. It’s absorbing to see what can be done with bound amounts of capacity while cerebration about the bedfellow experience.”
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